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Here is another classic airbrush that I've been wanting to take a look at. So, that is really what I determined to get. Dave Monnig, the owner of Coast, gave a break to me to the cost, and I really appreciate it. Dave is really a great man, and his wisdom and enthusiasm for airbrushes is apparent once you speak to him. Make sure you take a look at his free videos to the Coast site. They're well worth seeing.
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I hate to say this, however they weren't great. The finish is fine enough, but it was stuck, when I attempted to pull back in the trigger. So, I figured I'd pull the head off. However, it was impossible to do with the small wrench supplied. It was frozen.
I let sit for around a quarter hour, place a small lacquer thinner in the paint input interface and propped the brush upside down. To get it loose, I used a 6 inch Crescent wrench and clamped the body in my woodworking vice, expecting the nothing would break. After some lube and cleaning with Chapstick, it now turns pretty well with some small rough spots. There were grooves within the point from being pressed too hard from the entire body, as you could see in the right.
I put it back together and found the needle did not need to seat all the way forward within the point. I haven't ever seen this before. I inked the front part of your body and point of the needle and pressed them against a sheet of paper, to show what I mean. To the right you can view the effects. The needle comes out about two thirds down in the highest part of the opening. It does not appear to influence the spray pattern much, and it's also a tolerance to hold. But, never have I seen one this far off before.
The three openings in the top are air passages. Three appear a little an overkill to me.
I tried the point, # 5 needle and head and got the exact same results. So, the difficulty should be in the body.
So, what things to perform? I could likely return it to Coast. But rather, I'll try contacting Paasche.
So, that is really what I did.
Exactly 14 days after a package arrived from Paasche. I thought, great now I will try it out. As soon as I analyzed the brush and opened the box I found IT ABSOLUTELY WAS THE IDENTICAL AIRBRUSH. I recognized it in the mark once I attempted to remove it I made in the air valve body. And, it had the identical difficulties. They did not even replace the point. Do you think I was miserable? I fired off an e-mail to Chuck describing my displeasure. The following day I really got a reply from Chuck. He said he did not understand how that happened, however he would send a new airbrush to me free. I guess screwups can occur anywhere. True to his word, a fresh airbrush arrived several days after, also it appears great. So, although it cost a few dollars to me to send the airbrush, I ended up having a group of spare parts plus an excellent one.
Here it is
The VL appears quite like the Badger 175 Crescendo.
Both have fat bodies, with diameters inside several thousandths of each other. The needle shielding cap about the VL could be removed, exposing the needle for close work. The Paasche cup appears much just like a Badger straight cup, and bottles and cups are interchangeable.
It probably never requires to be removed anyway. The internal portions of the air valve are simple to remove having a little screwdriver, and tension can be adjusted by you with a little number.
The needle seal is Teflon, and like others I've found with this kind really sensitive to adjust. The handle takes a couple more turns to remove, and has finer threads compared to Badger 175. The head resembles the 175, with no gaskets. However, it can need a wrench to tighten. The trigger assembly is much like the Chandlers & Thayer, using the rocking chair forever attached towards the needle tube.
The needle limiter is apt. As you could see about the left, there's a small thumb wheel that moves a lever that holds the trigger back. It appears to become a fairly fine adjustment, and will be helpful. About the right, you can easily observe it disassembled. These are tiny parts that might be simple to lose and catchy to put back together You really should never be required to take it apart.
The needles are not like anything I've seen before either. The primary shaft diameter of three is really a big 0.080 inches. However, the medium and big needles step down to 0.050 inches nearby the point. For some reason, the fine needle does not possess a measure. The heads and needles have grooves to identify them.
The medium VL needle has a double slope taper quite definitely such as the Badger 175 needle. The taper of the 175 is marginally more acute. About the right, the VL needle could be the very best one and beneath it could be the 175 medium.
On account of the somewhat different taper, the 175 moderate needle extends farther past the end of the point. About the right, the point and needle will be the VL, and also the reduced one the 175 medium. This results in quite different trigger features. In the 175 this is only turned, and also the gentle incline lasts for about three quarters of the stroke.
Notice, the VL hint has already been creating a mark where it meets the body. And, I have not around tightened it. This may be caused by the difference between utilizing a hand and wrench tightening. Or, it could be that the VL has a sharper edge physically.
They both go a comparable space. There's really little difference in trigger sensitivity, although I'd give a minimal advantage to the 175. About the right, you can easily observe the VL #1 at the very best and beneath, the 175 fine.
Contrary to other airbrushes I've seen, the front and rear surfaces of the VL trigger are distinct. The front is rounded and also the back side that rubs in the rocking chair is level. Normally, they're both rounded. Earlier VL's had a two component trigger, such as the Master G-22 and some Iwatas. It's been altered towards the simpler one piece design having an indent around the underside, similar towards the Badgers. You should change both trigger and also the air valve piston, to convert a classic brush.
The head was previously universal for many point sizes, and also the head cap was truly a spray regulator. The head has become marked with 3 stripes and acts being a spray regulator, as you could see around the right, and also the head cap is only a protective sleeve. This implies you could have complete needle exposure and spray without it. One criticism I've seen of the older version is the fact that this isn't possible. I imagine that is an upgrade which could be performed to older brushes.
The hose has rubber O-rings at both ends that ought to create a great seal. Additionally, it smelled like the interior of the tire shop, therefore it has to be rubber. The Badger braided hose doesn't have odor, and that I expect it is some form of plastic. The threads in the end are unique to Paasche. So, an adapter becomes necessary if you'd like to utilize a hose, or when you'd like to utilize the Paasche hose having another airbrush.
Trying it out
As I pulled back around the trigger the spray would stop and begin, and stop completely using the trigger all of the way back. I tried tightening the needle seal somewhat, but it did not help. I got a bit of bees wax formed something just like a big olive stone, and where in fact the tip sits that I twisted it lightly within your body opening. It was fixed by that. Then, as I do on all my airbrushes, I cut a few loops off trigger springs and the air valve to lighten the actions.
I utilized the thumb wheel trigger limiter. It works extremely nicely. Without it, my lines wouldn't normally have been as fine or consistent.
The VL #3 uses a little more atmosphere than the 175 medium. The opening across the point is bigger.
The #5 is the first 1.0mm point I've ever used. It's extremely sensitive. It'll spray a WHOLE lot, whenever you pull back a little.
I sprayed ModelMaster enamel on several plastic with the #3 moderate needle, also it went on fine and smooth with great control. The spray pattern was narrow enough that I believe that you'd rarely must change to the #1 needle. And yet, it could cover a fairly large area also. The thumb wheel limiter is really a pleasant feature. Clean up was fast and simple.
Paasche is really a wonderful old business with several enthusiasts, and it really does not feel great to point out defects. I would never have mentioned it, if it had merely been a stuck needle. And, I likely would have only now said the head was tight and desired a wrench, and allow it to go, when the head was tight without any injury towards the point. However, the brush was unuseable, also it could happen to be dishonest of me to ignore it. The box was factory sealed from the reputable dealer. It could happen to be the sole bad one within the stack. Indeed, it could function as only bad one Paasche ever sent for all I know. But, that is really what I got. Sure, there clearly was a mixup around the return, but Paasche's answer was exceptional.
The VL is a great airbrush. It's comparable to the 175 which can also be a great airbrush. I am not a huge supporter of fat bodied airbrushes. However, should you would rather have a bigger airbrush, the VL can definitely perform a fine job.